The wonderful thing about leather is the character it takes on with age.
At local flea market I found the exact style leather bag I had been searching for, a small and light briefcase-style portfolio bag, just large enough for my laptop and notepads. A troubled and abused looking bag, the leather appeared to be scarred with scratches, stains and smudges- a true gem in the rough. I inspected the quality of the leather, the zippers- everything seemed in order. Although I didn’t recognize the brand, I knew that it was a high quality case and was hoping to wheel and deal it for around $100.
Without any hesitation or negotiation, I handed over $20, his response to ‘how much?’ Giddy with excitement, I looked up prices for this particular brand and model (something I could’ve easily done on my phone, but I was already confident of it’s quality), finding it retails for more than $500.
Now to get to work. In my arsenal, your typical shoe cleaning kit items, along with leather-care oils:
- Non-detergent Dish Soap
- Neutral (Clear) Shoe Wax
- Neatsfoot Oil
- Brown Shoe Polish
- Brown Shoe Paste
- Clean Cotton Rags
Clean the Leather
The point here isn’t to get the leather to look new again, you just want to restore it to a clean, healthy looking exterior. First up, lets clean this beauty! Use a mild, non-detergent dish soap mixed with warm water, a couple of drops in a small bowl will work fine. Don’t soak the leather, you want to clean off any dirt, debris and nasty stuff off the surface, so it should end up being damp, but not wet when you are done.
Condition the Leather
Once the bag or case is dry from cleaning, we want to condition the leather to get it back to a hydrated and healthy look and feel. You may want to skip this step if the leather is in good condition and does not appear to be dry. This may change the color of the bag (usually darkens it), and could highlight some of the stains and damaged areas, so be aware of that. There are several types of conditioning oils out there, I just happen to have a bottle of Neatsfoot oil, so that is what I used. Using a clean cotton rag, apply generously to all leather areas (except for any suede). The leather should have a soft shine to it once you have finished. Place it in a well ventilated area away from sunlight to dry.
Seal the Scratches in the Leather
Next, we will address any scratches or cuts to the leather, these are the hardest to repair so if your potential purchase has too many of them, you may want to pass for something more intact. Make sure the leather is dry from the conditioning (at least an hour), and apply the clear wax to the scratches. Use plenty and work it into the leather as much as possible. The point here is to both to seal and further protect these vulnerable areas from water and dirt.
Even the Tone and Polish the Leather
Here is where I use a combination of paste and wax polish to even out any stains and give the leather bag a more even tone. Start with the paste and use sparingly at first if it is pigmented. Work into the leather in the dull areas and let dry. Wipe the paste clean after it has dried and then apply the wax next.
Buffing
Here is where all the work pays off. Take a clean cotton rag and go to town. You want to remove excess the dried wax and really polish it to a shine. A bit of water on the rag can help if things get a bit sticky, or if you want to get a really good shine.
After a few weeks or months of regular use, you will find the leather loosens up and continues to even out. Little touch ups here and there may be necessary to get it just the way you want, but try and enjoy the natural aged character of your unique bag.
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